What's the Difference Between DTF and UV DTF?

DTF is for soft fabrics using heat and hot-melt powder, while UV DTF is for hard, non-porous surfaces using UV-cured inks and pressure-sensitive adhesive.

Step-by-Step: How DTF Works 

Step 1 – Print your Design on PET Film (DTF)

  • You start with a special PET film and a DTF printer.
  • The printer lays down CMYK colors first, then a white ink layer to make the design opaque.
  • The DTF inks are water-based pigments made for textiles, so they stay flexible after transfer.

Why It Matters to You:

You can print full-color, detailed designs (including on dark shirts) and keep them ready as transfers for later jobs.

Step 2 – Apply and Cure Hot Melt Adhesive Powder

While the ink is still tacky, you coat the printed areas with fine TPU hot-melt DTF powder and shake off the excess, then you cure the powder on the film.

Typical cure range for the powder is about 250–270°F (120–132°C) for 2–3 minutes in a curing oven, or around 320–356°F (160–180°C) for 60–90 seconds, depending on your setup and powder.

Why It Matters to You:

Good curing is what gives DTF its strength. If the powder isn’t melted evenly, you’ll see poor adhesion or premature cracking in the wash. 

Step 3 – Heat Press The Transfer onto Fabric

You place the cured film on your garment and use a heat press.

Common Settings:

  • Temperature: usually 300–320°F (149–160°C) for most blends, sometimes up to 320–350°F (160–180°C) for 100% cotton. Learn more about how to apply heat press through our guide.
  • Time: about 10–15 seconds.
  • Pressure: medium to firm, enough to fully seat the adhesive into the fibers.

Why It Matters to You:

This step bonds the adhesive to the fabric fibers, creating a print that can usually withstand 50–100 wash cycles if you use quality materials and proper settings.

Step 4 – Peel The Film And (Optionally) Repress

After pressing, you peel the PET carrier film (hot, warm, or cold, depending on the film).

Many shops then do a second quick press with parchment or a finishing sheet for 5–10 seconds to smooth the surface and lock in the edges.

Final Outcome:

You get a soft, flexible, breathable print that moves with the fabric and works on cotton, polyester, blends, nylon, and more, ideal for apparel.

Step-by-Step: How UV DTF Works 

Step A – UV-print on PET “A film”

  • UV DTF uses a UV printer and UV-curable inks.
  • You print the design on a transparent PET A film in layers (often CMYK + white + a clear varnish).
  • As the ink is printed, it is instantly cured with UV LED lamps, forming a hard, raised ink layer.

What You Can Expect:

The print comes off the printer already dry, with very sharp detail, high gloss options, and strong color vibrancy.

Step B – Add/laminate adhesive (B film)

There are two common approaches:

AB Film System

The printed A film is laminated with a B film that carries a pressure-sensitive adhesive layer.

UV light may be used again to stabilize the sandwich.

Liquid/powder Adhesive System

A special UV DTF adhesive (liquid or powder) is applied to the back of the print and cured again with UV light, forming a sticky layer.

Why It Matters to You:

Instead of hot-melt powder that needs heat and fabric fibers, A custom UV DTF transfer creates a pressure-sensitive sticker-like layer that bonds to smooth, hard surfaces.

Step C – Cut and Prepare The Decals

  • After printing and lamination, you cut the designs into singles or gang sheets.
  • You may trim close to the artwork so the clear edge is minimal.

Why It Matters For You:

You can hand your customer ready-to-apply peel-and-stick decals without a heat press. This is ideal if you sell ready-made stickers online.

Step D – Peel and Apply To Hard Surfaces

To use a UV DTF decal, you:

  • Peel off the A film, lifting the ink + adhesive stack.
  • Position it on a smooth surface, common choices are tumblers, mugs, jars, phone cases, laptops, glass, metal, plastic, wood, and packaging. 
  • Press and squeegee out air.
  • Remove the carrier, leaving the design behind.

Final Outcome:

You get a waterproof, scratch-resistant, fade-resistant decal that grips non-porous surfaces very strongly and doesn’t need a heat press or oven.

DTF vs UV DTF – Key Practical Differences for You

Main Use

DTF: Soft textiles (t-shirts, hoodies, sportswear, workwear).

UV DTF: Hard, smooth surfaces (drinkware, gadgets, packaging, signs).

Curing & Application

DTF: Cures with heat (250–350°F depending on stage), then needs a heat press to bond to fabric.

UV DTF: Cures with UV light, then uses peel-and-stick pressure, no press or oven.

Durability Type

DTF: Designed for repeated washing, typically 50–100+ wash cycles with proper care.

UV DTF: Designed for waterproof, scratch-resistant, chemical-resistant decals on objects that are handled often and sometimes hand-washed or wiped.

Feel & Finish

DTF: Soft, flexible, and thin, comfortable on clothing.

UV DTF: Slightly raised, with a glossy, sticker-like feel, great for branding and labels.

When Should You Use Each?

Choose DTF when you want wearable prints on fabric that can go through a washing machine many times.

Choose UV DTF when you want premium, durable decals for hard, non-porous products like branded cups, jars, electronics, or product packaging.